I’m very pleased to be offering this excellent pattern by fellow California based patternmaker Laughing Moon.
A classic Regency coat, this pattern was based on an extant tailcoat from the Regency era that the pattern maker had in her possession. It truly is one of the most accurate patterns out there for the period, with all the fit and characteristics of an early 19th century tailcoat.
I went to her talk about the coat and saw firsthand what this coat looks like made up. You can see the photos the pattern maker took of the original extant period coat this pattern was based on on her pinterst board.
It should be noted that this coat has a waist seam, and because of this, some Regency enthusiasts say it is not suitable for the very early 19th century, and leans more towards the late 1810's-1820s. But I will happily make it up for earlier periods as well, because it makes a gorgeous coat.
I recommend this pattern for upper intermediate to advanced skill sewists, because tailoring can take some getting used to.
Pattern # 121
Men's Regency Tailcoat
5 Collar & Lapel Options
Sizes 34 - 56
All in the Envelope
Printed on White Paper with
Colored Cutting Lines
Men's Regency Tailcoat with Five Collar and Lapel Options.
Period 1810 - 1830
This tailcoat has a waist seam and is double breasted with the bottom two buttons meant to be buttoned.
When buttoned the collar and lapels bow out to make room for shirt, cravat, and up to two vests. The collar stands approximately 3 inches tall at the back of the neck when folded over. The front of the coat is cut broad and the back narrow, forcing an erect stance or may even throw the shoulders back. The fit is very close. The sleeves are very long, meaning to end at the wrist or longer, with the cuffs adding another 3 inches so that the sleeves with cuffs end at the knuckles of the hand. The sleeves fit very closely except at the top where they are puffed and full.
The shoulders are cut very narrow. There are two separate tails that overlap at center back. The coat has an inside breast pocket and there are two tail pockets. The back has two pocket flaps that are only decorative. View A can be made with any wool. Views B, D, D, and E have a collar and lapel that must be made with wool that does not ravel or ravels very little. View A lapel is a simple notched collar, which could be made with the upper collar of velvet if desired. View B is a small "M" notch. View C was called a "Lark's Tongue" notch and is very pointed. View D is a wide "M" notch. View E is a long
touching "M" notch. The instructions have both period and modem (theatrical) tailoring instructions. Information about fabric, interfacing, lining, fit, and supplies sources are
included inside the pattern.
Fabric: Wool 12 to 24 oz. This type of fairly thick, felted wool
can be called Melton, Coating, Pilot Cloth, Doeskin,
Broadcloth, or Flannel. Sleeve Lining and Pocketing:
Bleached Muslin or modem lining fabric.
Chest Interfacing: Linen canvas or modem hair canvas interfacing.
Collar and Front Facing Interfacing: Wool Melton or
Linen Canvas or modem hair canvas interfacing.
Optional inside lining: Silk Faille or modern lining. Notions:
Sixteen 5/8" or 3/4" shank buttons, four 3/8" or 1/2" shank
buttons. Optional for modem construction: 1/4" Fusible stay tape